Diacetylrest at 22 C (72 F)

This may sound crazy, but I commonly hold the “Diacetyl rest” at 22 C (72 F) for my lagers. When reading through some German brewing papers I notices that some of them referred to a fermentation schedule where the lager was fermented at 8 C (46 F) for about a week and after that the beer temperature was raised to 22 C for 1-2 days before the beer was crash cooled to near freezing for cold conditioning.

In my brewing it takes a bit longer than a week for the beer to be done with primary fermentation. It also doesn’t reach final gravity as fast as it was shown in those papers. To make maters worse, fermenting the last few fermentable sugars until the attenuation is close enough to the attenuation limit always tends to take longer than I want it to.

To speed things up I started holding the “Diacetyl rest” rest around 20 C. I intentionally put diacetyl rest in quotes since for most of us the primary benefit of this rest is not diacetyl reduction but speeding up yeast’s consumption of those last fermentable sugars.I prefer to call this rest a maturation rest and may hold it for up to a week, if the beer is still too far away from its attenuation target. (If you don’t know how to determine final extract or gravity target of the beer, check out the Fast Ferment Test.)

Warm fermentation and lagers doesn’t seem to go together, but don’t worry. Low fermentation temperatures are only needed during primary fermentation when the yeast is actively growing and its metabolism shows activity along many different pathways that can leak excessive esters and higher alcohols if the temperature is too high. Once the yeast is done growing and all nitrogen sources have been assimilated, the fermentation temperature can be raised without the risk of creating the flavor compounds that are generally associated with high temperature fermentations.

keg with heating pad and temperature sensor

keg with heating pad and temperature sensor

I do these maturation rests in kegs for a number of reasons. First, I can easily heat them with a heating pad controlled by a temperature controller. Second, I can use this fermentation to carbonate the beer. Lastly, the yeast will consume all the oxygen that is introduced during racking.

The image above shows how the heating pad (you’ll need one that doesn’t have an automatic shut-off) is attached to the bottom of the keg. At the top of the keg I attach the temperature sensor, covered with a piece of foam.

When the beer is racked to the keg, I make sure plenty of yeast is transferred as well. The kegs have a shortened dip tube, which allows for transferring the beer and leaving behind the yeast sediment later.

Finally the whole thing is wrapped in a blanket for further insulation:

Keg wrapped in a blanket

Keg wrapped in a blanket

A pressure gauge is attached to monitor the pressure build-up and allow controlled CO2 release.

Weissbier II

This is now the first Weissbier that is part of the "Summer of Wheats":

  • 70% Light Wheat malt
  • 30% Pilsner malt
  • 2% acid malt
  • 2% CaraAroma

 It was mashed with a Hochkurz mash:

  • Infusion to Maltose: 30 mit at 63C
  • Infusion to Dextrinizaton: 60 min at 70C
  • Decoction to mash-out: 10 min at 76C

Boiled for 60 min with 0.4g/l of alpha acid (Hallertauer) and  fermented a 20C with WY3056.

While I was very excited by a similar beer that I made last year with the same yeast, I'm less impressed with this one. Even though it was fermented fairly high (20 C), the aroma lacks the typical banana esters. One of the reasons might be that the WY 3056 is a blend of yeasts and I cultured the yeast pitch from a slant of that yeast. Most likely the more neutral yeast of the blend prevailed. 

There is also little in the way of spice/clove aroma and taste. But this is dependent on the yeast as well and I didn't do a ferulic acid rest either. Instead I'm getting a mild yeasty note from the aroma and finish. Though there is certainly a "yeasty" category of Weissbiers, I'm not to fond of them.

The 2% CaraAroma made this beer darker than I wanted it to be.

Stats:

  • Original Extract: 11.5 Plato
  • Fast Ferment Test: 2.7 Plato
  • Limit of Attenuation: 76.5 %
  • Final Extract of beer: 3.0 Plato
  • Attenuation of beer: 74 %

 The limit of attenuation and attenuation of the beer is not quite where I want to have it either. I'd like the fast ferment test extract to be closer to 2.5 Plato and the actual beer extract to be very close to that (2.5 – 2.6 Plato). Weissbiers are generally very well attenuated beers, which is partly a result of the poorly flocculating yeast. This one is a little on the sweet side due to the larger difference between its attenuation and the limit of attenuation.

  

Helles that became a Pilsner

This beer was an experiment in which I tried a lot of new techniques that I generally don't use in my brewing process. The motivation was that I was not quite happy with the aroma and finish of my beers. For the
lagers, in which I use only bittering hops or only little amounts of
flavoring hops, I didn't get much aroma from the beer. I feel that it is
rather empty compared to a commercial Helles or Maerzen. And the finish
still felt a little to harsh. And there is a pesky slight dustiness
that I'm occasionally getting from my beers.

So I gave a Helles a try and made sure that I pay
attention to all the details that I know could make a difference and
which I could take care of w/o bying new equipment:

  • use a heated step infusion mash with a 57 C (137 F) dough in and a 2
    step saccrification rest. 63 C Maltose rest and then an extended (60 min) rest at 70 C, which is said to be beneficial for body and head retention. This is pretty much as authentic German as it
    gets and this would be a first for me since it doesn't really fit my
    brew-house. But I can make it work.
  • when batch sparging don't drain the wort below grain level. This is basically in response to the BYO article about sparging
  • fix the manifold seal for my MLT. Recently I started pulling in air through this.
  • add hops before the hot break and maybe even FWH the batch. Hopefully this smoothens out the finish
  • 90 min boil
  • DMS rest. When I have an imported Helles it generally has a tad of a
    sweet aroma. It doesn't smell like the typical DMS aroma to me, but I
    could imagine that it is DMS which is barely at the aroma threshold. So
    far I have been chilling my beers below 100 within 10 – 20 min. No
    Commercial brewery that has a whirlpool can do that and I want to know
    if this is the reason why my beers have such a clean (=empty) aroma.
    I'll have to read up on average time that commercial wort is spending
    hot.
  • 12+ hr post chill whirlpool settling. For that I will chill the wort
    to ~48F and keep it in an ice bath for the next 12 hrs before racking
    to the fermenter. This is supposed to get rid of about 60% of the cold
    break. Commercial brewies may have settling tanks for this. And since I
    don't have a conical I have to go this route.

These were a lot of changes, but If the beer really comes out different (and
hopefully better) I could start eliminating one extra step after
another to figure out what is actually important.

Here is the result:

The first surprise was, that there is great hop flavor and aroma even though all the hops were added before the start of the boil. First wort hopping does work! But the hop utilization was better than expected, so it became more of a Pilsner than a Helles.

I can't detect any DMS in the beer. The DMS rest didn't work, but I found that aged beer may develop a sweet aroma. It's likely that I'm getting this when having a German beer here in the US. Besides this, I had a Spaten Maibock on tap a few days back and its aroma was very similar to my lagers. I seem to be on the right track.

The step mash didn't make a dramatic difference since I cannot taste a difference that I would contribute to that. It may take a side-by side to verify this. But the head retention is good. Difficult to tell if his is a result of the long rest at 70 C.

I used the Bavarian lager (WY2206) for this, since this was the only yeast I had on hand at the time and had to push it hard (i.e. warm maturation rest) to get close to the limit of attenuation. But it didn't want to and stalled 0.5 Plato shy of it:

original extract: 12.0 Plato

limit of attenuation: 82% (fast ferment test AE=2.2 Plato)

beer attenuation: 77% (beer AE=2.7 Plato)

The target for the aparent extract of the beer was 2.5 Plato, and as a result of actually being higher than that the beer is a little sweeter than I'd like it to be. But I know to fix this with a different yeast next time.

I didn't see any benefit of the more complete trub removal. According to some studies and other home brewer's experiments, its importance seems overstated anyway.

The pesky "dusty" taste still exists. But since it only happens when I drink the beer that stood in the beer line for a day, I suspect it is staling in the beer line.

 

 

Maibock II

This year's Maibock came out really nice (recipe). The only thing I'll have to change next time is to use a different yeast to make sure it attenuates better. The yeast I used was the Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian Lager) which has a really hard time when it comes to getting the attenuation closer to the limit of attenuation. This leaves more fermentable sugars in the beer which results in an increased sweetness. And maybe I'll also reduce the amount of dark munich from 20 to 15%, to lighten the color.

The beer was actually much more cloudy shortly after I filtered it, but it cleared nice in the keg since then. The filtration was done with a 1 micron (nominal) spun sediment filter.

Stats:

original extract: 16.5 Plato

limit of attenuation: 82% (fast ferment test AE = 3.0 Plato)

actual attenuation: 75% (beer AE = 4.1 Plato) 

 

 

 

Gose I

This was my first attempt on a Gose, a German sour beer that is brewed with coriander and salt. Because I generally don't like sour beers, I only made a 1 gal batch which turned out to be a good idea.

The wort was taken from a batch of wheat beer that was brewed with 70% light wheat malt and 30% Pilsner malt (at 12 Plato) and hopped to about 10 IBU. 0.8 l of the unhopped wort was boiled for 15 min and inoculated with about 1 Tsp crushed malt. This wort was then left to sour at ~ 21 c (70 f) for a few days before 0.5 l were added to 2.5 l of hopped wort and then boiled for 15 min. The boil served to kill all the bugs in the soured wort. 12 crushed coriander seeds and 1/2 tsp of kosher salt were added to the boil as well as 0.5l water to compensate evaporation.

 After cooling the wort was fermented with WY1007 (German Ale) for a week at about 20C (68F) and bottled straight from the fermenter. 2g of table sugar was added to each bottle for carbonation.

 After 2 weeks I tasted the result:

 Appearance:

  • good head retention
  • cloudy as I remember a Gose from Germany

Aroma:

  • there is some light sour aroma, but I think that there should be more

Taste:

  • To much salt. The salt is way to prominent and it tastes like Gatorade
  • Not sour enough. The sourness is rather restrained. I either want to increase the portion of soured wort or just invest into a lacto culture instead of souring with malt
  • The coriander is there but barely noticeable. I won't change that for now
  • The carbonation was a little low. Most likely it didn't ferment as far as I wanted it to ferment

All in all, a decent, yet not really drinkable first attempt. I'll stick with the small batches off Weissbier batches until I figured out how to get it just right.